It is not every day that you see a chemical engineer rip apart fashion trends on the path to creating new ones, but then again, it is not every day you get a brand that literally wants your eyes to water in excitement while you stand in line, patiently waiting your turn to be blessed with its exceptional offerings.

Vlisco x Pepperow: A Floral Story. Image courtesy of Vlisco

“I chose the name ‘Pepper Row’ to signify a spicy (pepper) brand that [is so interesting that it] gets people’s attention”, Omafume Niemogha, the creative director of Afrocentric neo-luxury fashion brand, Pepper Row, tells me in a phone interview. But beyond wanting to be the go-to authentic luxury fashion brand in Africa and the world, Pepper Row is, and would always remain, a sustainable luxury fashion brand, towing the lines of other similar brands like Valentino that recently banned the use of alpaca wool and Prada which announced this month that it would be ditching the use of Kangaroo leather.

Omafume Niemogha, founder and creative director of Pepper Row. Image courtesy of The Guardian Nigeria

“The fashion industry is perhaps the greatest producer of waste. This was one thing I wanted to stop with the creation of Pepper Row. Vertical Integration is our in-house production team, but I personally monitor everything they do, in addition to sourcing for organically-produced materials (hand-woven and hand-dyed fabrics) from local artisanal communities. Instead of binning scrap materials, I ensure they are put together to create a whole new garment. Every piece of ‘waste’ is carefully managed and reduced to the barest minimum.”

From the 2019 summer collection, 3D abstract wiggle skirt made from scrap fabric. Image courtesy of Pepper Row

So, we know what Pepper Row stands for and what it is about, but how did it start? What was the inspiration? “My father,” Niemogha tells me. “His work in the advertising industry stirred my creative side, and after my education, I decided to go into fashion. But I did not start with the ready-to-wear-line first. I actually started with bridal wears.” A year after a successful stint with Pepper Row Bridals, Omafume decided it was time for the ready-to-wear line of Pepper Row. She kickstarted it with the Reighé collection in 2018.

From the AW19 collection, Reighé. Image courtesy of Pepper Row

And she has not looked back since then. In 2019, Pepper Row, in partnership with Vlisco, international producers and distributors of mostly African wax prints, released a capsule collection dubbed ‘A Floral Story.’ Featuring Vlisco’s wax printed fabrics, it was a bold patterned affair, replete with structure and a mix of other fabrics including aso-oke, chiffon and lace. The SS20 ‘Afrofuturism’ collection is her latest ready-to-wear-line. It is the depiction of a “beautiful utopian world where Africa is celebrated and is a source of inspiration globally,” a future that is dominated by African designs. Featuring even more aso-oke fabrics, the collection is yet another burst of bright colours knitted into contemporary and futuristic designs that immediately grab and hold your attention.

Vlisco x pepper Row: A Floral Story. Image courtesy of Pepper Row

At this point, I have to ask: how does Pepper Row manage to thrive in a business climate as unique as Nigeria’s? How does it manage to work with local artisans in Nigeria and Africa in spite of the unpleasant stories we hear every day? “I try not to focus on the negatives,” says Niemogha. “I look out for all the help I can get either from the government or private entities. I always try to remain consistent and I keep pushing. And this is my advice for anyone looking to start a business in Nigeria: start small. Keep going. Be strategic. Adapt. Build a solid brand and keep pushing.”

From the 2020 Summer collection: dress shirt made from aso-oke fabric. Image courtesy of Pepper Row

And in the spirit of pushing forward, Niemogha says we should be expecting a new collection from Pepper Row soon. The pandemic was the perfect opportunity to sit down and think, and now, she is working on something new that would once again involve local artisans: this time, bead makers from Ghana. “I want to empower the artisanal community and make a difference in the world through fashion, and if I were not doing Pepper Row, I would be working in my field of study while helping people succeed and live their best lives.”

Omafume’s work with local artisanal communities offers dual benefits: it helps Pepper Row get organically-sourced materials that promote sustainability while empowering members of the community. Image courtesy Pepper Row

As we wrap up the conversation, Niemogha reminds me, “Don’t give up, keep pushing, Be consistent, and always look to the positive side of every situation.” Perfect advice that encapsulates everything Pepper Row is.

From the 2019 summer collection: Adire shirt. Image courtesy of Pepper Row

Five fun facts about Omafume Niemogha

ON: I love the colour pink, and you can see it almost everywhere in my work!

ON: On things I cannot do without, I say “Never say Never!” But, if there is something that I would not give up, it would be my Bible, Diary and sketchbook. Well, that’s three things!

ON: The one thing people don’t know about me? I love dancing!

ON: Designers that inspire me? Locally, I would say Lisa Folawiyo. Internationally would be Gucci, Prada, amongst others.

ON: My typical day is wake up, pray, work out, breakfast (I try to eat healthy) and then work, work, work, work, work! It is work all the way. But sometimes, I try to hang out with friends in the evening. That’s it!